Mid Bass Horn Design 80-800 Hz

[bfish]

I dunno. That's why it was hypothetical...

This stuff?

http://www.premierwood.com/departmen....cfm?killnav=1

[jnorv]

I was thinking more about this product. Not sure if it can be had in larger sheets.

http://www.van*****.com/product/02007822

In my youth I had a boat that was made of plywood that was laid up layer by layer over a mold. I guess one could make a mold and lay up the curve.

Jim

[Steve Mac]

I just learned something, thanks guys.
There is this product call EZ Lock too.
There's a place not too far away that stocks this stuff too. The only question I have is that if
I have to tap out the hole, why not just use the tapped out hole? ...ahh except that the Rivnut will create a big, fat nut in a flat piece of metal...I see...I think that would work well with a cheapo metal angle bracket or maybe I buy a length of cast iron angle from Lowes and do some metal work. Okay, I admit I'm not a metal head. again thanks guys...

[bfish]

Originally posted by Jim Norvell:
...I guess one could make a mold and lay up the curve.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">In concrete.

I found some 4x8 sheets of 3/4" "bendy birch" that will bend a full circle in its length. $128...

http://www.aitwood.com/default.asp

Odd...they're in Anaheim...

[Steve Mac]

Well after much head scratching I decided that if I used wood on the wedge sides, it would be stronger inside the wedge, but I knew it was going to be a pain. First, I cut a piece of tin to the open side dimension of the wedge.
Tin cut out template
Then I cut 8 pieces of plywood based on it.
After that I sliced these pieces of plywood into 5" slices. Then I made a guide pattern out of plywood to line up the...oh fergit it...a picture describes it better.
Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3
Pic 4
Pic 5
At this point I haven't glued anything. At this stage of this project the design water's a bit murky.

[bfish]

Here's one with some common elements;

Volvotreter Midbass Horn

[Steve Mac]

Very similar! Funny, I've been to this website in the past and didn't see this particular work. Thanks for the link. On this Christmas Eve I've glued one of the wedges except for the side panel pieces. It's coming along pretty good, I just need to be steady at this point. I've spent some time making sure that the wedge faces are not glued or screwed or nailed. Maybe at some point I will, but I'm trying to keep the surface clean looking. I've made ~40 blocks to counter the lower guide pieces on the wedge angled face so lots of busy work. But one good thing is that I've found an excuse to buy a brad gun which I'm sure will find further use later in this project. Here are some pics of one glued wedge. I will make the other three, let them dry and then plaster the side panels with gobs of liquid nails to create adhesion, cushion and eliminate any possible vibration. I can finally see the light here at this point. I'd like to thank bfish and Jim for your suggestions so far. It's kind of a lonely task.
Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3

Not sure yet but I think I need a slow setting auto body filler or similar product(10 minutes?) to "face up" the sides for the gasket application. Well that and maybe a sheetrock blade to run the filler along the side. I could just cover the side 3/4" edges, but I have plenty of rubber and I like the idea of a well fitted, large contact area.

[Steve Mac]

4 wedges need to dry overnight...
Pic

[Steve Mac]

Now the side pieces glued in place and an access hole cut out of the wedges top tops and bottom bottoms:
Pic 1
Pic 2

[Steve Mac]

Here's a reality check showing the wedges on the rear chamber:
wedges on the rear chamber